Winterizing is mandatory for any RV stored below freezing. Skipping winterization causes tank cracking or fitting damage that\'s not warranty-covered.
What you need
- Anode rod socket (1-1/16")
- Bucket
- Pink RV antifreeze (3-5 gallons)
- Garden hose or flush wand (optional)
Procedure
- Turn off heat source — switch off gas and electric at the control panel
- Wait for tank to cool — 1-2 hours; scalding water is a hazard
- Close inlet shutoff (or close cold water supply to RV)
- Open a hot tap inside the RV to relieve vacuum and allow drainage
- Remove anode rod — use 1-1/16" socket; tank drains through this port
- Catch water in bucket — 6-16 gallons depending on tank size
- Optional: flush with garden hose or flush wand through the anode port
- Set bypass valves to "winterize" position — typically 3 valves; verify all positions
- Re-install anode rod (or leave out for storage — note: requires re-install before next use)
- Pump RV antifreeze through plumbing — the bypass diverts around the tank
- Verify all faucets see pink antifreeze at hot AND cold sides
Critical: bypass valves matter
Bypass valves divert plumbing around the water heater so you don\'t need to fill a 6-10 gallon tank with antifreeze (wasteful). Most RVs have these factory-installed. If your RV lacks bypass valves, install them before winterizing.
Spring de-winterize
- Set bypass valves back to "operate" position
- Re-install anode rod if removed
- Fill tank — open inlet shutoff, run hot tap until water flows steady (no air sputter)
- Verify no leaks at all connections
- Restore power; brief operation test on both LP and electric
- Sanitize tank if water sat for months (bleach solution per RV sanitization guide)
Bottom line
Winterize before first freeze. Bypass valves + drain + antifreeze = 30-minute job that prevents catastrophic tank damage.