Atwood troubleshooting focuses on RV-specific issues. Diagnostics apply to current Dometic models that succeed Atwood.
No hot water on LP
- Verify LP supply — propane tanks open, other appliances work
- Check 12V DC at unit — below 11V causes DSI issues
- Bypass valves set to "operate" position
- Wait 30 seconds and retry — DSI lockout auto-resets
DSI lockout
- Spider webs in burner tube — most common cause; disassemble and clean
- Eroded spark electrode — verify gap; replace if damaged
- Sense electrode dirty — clean with fine sandpaper
- Low LP pressure — regulator or cold tank issue
Pilot won\'t stay lit (older G6A-7)
- Bad thermocouple — most common ($15-25 replacement)
- Dirty pilot orifice — clean with compressed air
- Failed gas valve — replace
No hot water on electric (E models)
- Verify 120V at shore power or generator
- Check element switch on inside control panel
- Reset ECO (small button on the element area)
- Element resistance test — 1400W 120V should read ~10 Ω
Drain plug leak (Atwood-specific)
- Atwood uses a plastic drain plug (NOT an anode rod port like Suburban)
- Replace plastic plug with Teflon tape every 1-2 years
- Stripped threads = tank replacement (no field repair)
No anode rod — there\'s nothing to inspect
Unlike Suburban, Atwood\'s aluminum tank doesn\'t use an anode rod. Skip every "check the anode" diagnostic step.