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Rheem Water Heater Heating Element — Replacement Guide

Replace the heating element on a Rheem electric water heater: 4500W vs 5500W, upper vs lower, screw-in vs bolt-in, and step-by-step procedure.

Updated May 2026 · Rheem Water Heaters

Heating element failure is the most common Rheem electric water heater service item. Elements last 6–10 years depending on water hardness; once one fails, replacement is a 60-minute job for any handy homeowner with a multimeter. Total parts cost: $30–$60.

Symptoms of element failure

  • Upper element failed: no hot water at all (the upper element is what fires first; if it's dead, neither tank heats)
  • Lower element failed: hot water at first then quickly lukewarm (upper element keeps top of tank hot but can't keep up as you draw)
  • Both elements failed: no hot water and breaker keeps tripping (rare; usually means lightning strike or sustained over-voltage event)

Rheem element part numbers

ElementRheem part #Voltage / wattage
Standard 4500W (Performance, Performance Plus electric)SP10874MN240V 4500W screw-in
Standard 5500W (high-recovery variants)SP10874MK240V 5500W screw-in
Low-wattage 3800W (mobile-home spec)SP10874LH240V 3800W screw-in
Marathon polybutene-compatible elementAP12932ASpecialized — Marathon line only
ProTerra backup elementSP21176B240V 4500W

Universal-replacement 4500W screw-in elements (from Camco, Reliance, etc.) work in Rheem tanks. Verify the screw-in threading matches before ordering — most modern Rheem use 1" or 1-1/4" NPT screw-in.

How to test which element failed

You need a multimeter set to ohms.

  1. Shut off power at the breaker. Verify with a voltage meter at the element terminals.
  2. Remove the access panel covering the element you're testing (upper or lower)
  3. Disconnect the two element wires from the element terminals
  4. Set multimeter to ohms (200 ohm range)
  5. Touch the probes to the two element terminals
  6. Reading 10–16 ohms: element is good
  7. Reading 0 or "OL" / infinite: element has failed — replace
  8. Reading 1–9 ohms: element is shorted — replace

Also check that the element terminals don't show resistance to ground (touch one probe to the tank metal, the other to each element terminal — should be infinite/OL). If you see resistance to ground, the element has shorted to the tank and the high-limit breaker may have been tripping.

Replacement step by step

  1. Shut off power, verify with meter
  2. Shut off cold-water inlet
  3. Open a hot-water faucet in the house
  4. Drain the tank to below the element you're replacing (upper element: drain about half the tank; lower element: drain the entire tank). Use a garden hose on the drain valve to a floor drain or outside.
  5. Remove the access panel and the insulation around the element
  6. Disconnect the element wires
  7. Unscrew the element with a 1-1/2" element wrench (~$15 at any hardware store — don't try to substitute another tool, you'll round the element and make it harder to remove)
  8. Pull the element straight out — there's a rubber gasket on the threaded base
  9. Install the new element with a fresh gasket (usually included with the new element), hand-thread first, torque to ~25 ft-lbs (snug + 1/4 turn)
  10. Reconnect wires (no specific polarity)
  11. Refill the tank — open cold inlet, run hot-water faucet until steady flow
  12. Restore power only after the tank is full — running an exposed element with no water destroys it in seconds

Common mistakes

Powering up before refilling: the #1 mistake. Burns out the new element instantly. The tank must be completely full of water before power restoration.

Using regular socket or pliers instead of an element wrench: rounds the hex on the element base and turns a 60-minute job into a 4-hour job.

Cross-threading the new element: hand-thread first. Resistance after 1–2 turns means you're cross-threaded; back out and restart.

Skipping the new gasket: the rubber gasket is single-use. Reusing an old gasket guarantees a slow leak you won't notice for 6 months.

4500W vs 5500W upgrade

If your panel and circuit support 5500W (most do — 30-amp 240V circuit is standard), upgrading from 4500W to 5500W speeds recovery by ~22%. Same physical install. Worth it for high-demand households.

Bottom line

Element replacement is the most common Rheem electric service item — and one of the most DIY-friendly. Total cost: ~$50 parts + an hour of work, vs $200–$350 for a service call. Element wrench at the hardware store is the only specialty tool. For other parts see our Rheem parts directory.