Water pooling under or visibly emerging from the bottom of the water heater tank almost always means the tank itself has corroded through. There\'s no field repair — the unit is end-of-life and must be replaced.
Confirm it\'s the tank body
Before concluding tank failure, rule out:
- T&P discharge tube draining to the floor — follow the tube up; see leaking guide
- Drain valve leak — touch the drain valve and surrounding area; if dry, drain valve is OK
- Drain pan overflow drain — pan may have caught a smaller leak from above
- Plumbing above the tank dripping down
If water clearly emerges from the bottom of the tank itself, it\'s tank failure.
Why tanks fail at the bottom
- Sediment accumulates at the bottom of the tank
- Combined with consumed anode rod = no protection against corrosion
- Glass lining cracks at the bottom where heat stress concentrates
- Steel corrodes through; tank leaks
Emergency steps
- Turn off the heat source. Gas: rotate dial to "Off." Electric: flip the breaker
- Close the cold water inlet shutoff above the tank
- Connect a hose to the drain valve and drain to a floor drain or outside
- Call a plumber or shop for replacement
- If water is actively flooding the area, shut off main water to the house and contact emergency plumbing service
Don\'t do this
- Don\'t attempt to patch the tank — no patch holds against tank pressure
- Don\'t continue using the water heater — fully drain it
- Don\'t empty into a single drain pan capable of overflowing
Replacement considerations
- Under warranty? Contact manufacturer immediately. Warranty often covers tank replacement (not labor)
- Match capacity — like-for-like is simplest
- Consider upgrade: Marathon composite (lifetime warranty), heat pump (IRA $2,000 credit)
- Plumbing improvements: add expansion tank, upgrade to brass ball drain valve, replace dielectric unions
Bottom line
Bottom tank leak = end of life. Drain immediately to prevent flooding. Replace with like-for-like (simplest), step up to longer-warranty tier (Performance Platinum 12-yr), or consider lifetime-warranty (Marathon) or IRA-credit-eligible heat pump (Rheem ProTerra). Skipping anode rod replacement every 4-7 years is the underlying cause for most premature bottom-leak failures.