Camco Water Heater Troubleshooting — Symptoms, Causes, Fixes

Camco water heater troubleshooting in RV applications differs from residential because of the propane infrastructure, freeze risk, and the bypass valve system. Below: symptom-by-symptom diagnosis specific to RV environments.

Symptom: No hot water — gas mode

1. Verify propane is on: tank valve open, regulator working, gas pressure in spec (typically 11-14" WC)
2. Verify pilot is lit: sight glass on access panel
3. If no pilot: follow lighting procedure for your model (typically push gas valve to "Pilot," hold for 30 seconds, release)
4. If pilot lights but won't stay lit: thermocouple failure — most common cause. Replace ($25–45 part)
5. If pilot lit but main burner won't fire: gas valve failure, thermopile failure, or stuck damper

Symptom: No hot water — electric mode

1. Verify electric breaker is on (RV power panel)
2. Verify the heater's electric switch is "on" (typically inside RV or on access panel)
3. Press the high-limit reset (red button) on the access panel or inside the unit
4. Test element with multimeter (1500W at 120V should read ~10 ohms; 2400W at 240V should read ~24 ohms)

Symptom: Pilot lights but won't stay lit

90% of the time: failed thermocouple. Replacement is a 30-minute DIY: shut off propane, unscrew the thermocouple from the gas valve and from its mounting bracket, install the new one in reverse order, relight pilot. Verify the thermocouple tip is firmly in the pilot flame zone (about 3/8" into flame).

Symptom: Lukewarm hot water

• Bypass valves in wrong position: verify all bypass valves are in "in use" not "winterize"
• Element working at half power: for 240V units, only one leg of the supply is energized — verify both 120V legs at the heater electrical connection
• Thermostat set too low: bump up the temperature setting

Symptom: Hot water runs out very quickly

RV water heaters are small (4–10 gallons typical) — running out quickly is often normal during heavy use, not a fault. However, if recovery time is also slow:

• Verify gas pressure and burner orifice not clogged
• Inspect element (electric mode)
• Check that bypass valves are correctly positioned

Symptom: Water around the unit (interior bay)

1. Identify leak source — T&P discharge tube vs gasket leak vs tank weld
2. T&P discharge: normal if propane just fired and pressure spiked. If continuous, check expansion (RV systems often don't have expansion tanks; pressure spikes are managed by the T&P valve cycling)
3. Gasket leak at access panel: replace gasket ($15–25)
4. Tank weld leak: tank replacement required — warranty claim if within period

Symptom: Element makes popping noise (electric)

Element is partially submerged or has sediment buildup creating localized boiling. Drain and flush the tank.

Symptom: Strange smell from hot water

Sulfur or rotten-egg smell typically indicates anode rod reacting with sulfur in the water source. Switch to an aluminum-zinc anode rod (kills the reaction) or sanitize the tank with hydrogen peroxide.

Symptom: Tank won't drain

Camco tanks sometimes have clogs at the drain port from accumulated sediment. Use a flush wand or compressed air to clear, working in short bursts. Don't pressurize past 30 psi or you risk damaging tank welds.

When to call an RV-certified technician

For propane pressure issues, gas valve failure, suspected refrigerant leaks on hybrid units, tank weld leaks, or anything involving the RV's broader propane or electrical systems. Most RV dealers have factory-trained Camco service technicians.