Camco water heater installation in an RV requires more specialized knowledge than residential installs — propane line connection, bypass valve integration, exterior access panel sealing, and RV-specific electrical interfaces all matter. Below: the install procedure for an aftermarket Camco unit.
Pre-installation requirements
- Verify exterior bay dimensions match new unit specs (depth, width, height)
- Confirm fuel type compatibility (gas, gas/electric combo, electric-only)
- Verify access to propane supply line (regulated 11–14" WC for RV systems)
- Identify 120V supply circuit (RV converter, shore power, generator)
- Plan bypass valve plumbing connections
- Have new T&P relief valve and discharge tube
Tools needed
- Pipe wrench, channel locks, adjustable wrench
- Tubing cutter for PEX or PVC freshwater lines
- Propane leak-detect solution
- Multimeter
- Caulk gun and exterior RV sealant
- Helper for lifting (RV water heaters are 25–60 lbs)
Step 1: Drain and remove old unit
- Shut off propane and electric at the source
- Move bypass valves to "bypass" position
- Open hot faucet to break vacuum
- Drain tank fully (remove anode/drain plug; use flush wand if sediment-clogged)
- Disconnect propane line (use soap test after reconnect)
- Disconnect 12V control wiring
- Disconnect 120V supply wiring
- Disconnect water lines (hot and cold)
- Remove access panel screws
- Slide old unit out — caution, 25–60 lbs
Step 2: Install new Camco unit
- Position new unit, verify bay clearances
- Connect water lines (cold inlet, hot outlet) using compatible fittings
- Connect propane line — verify thread sealant correct for gas (Teflon paste, not tape on propane fittings)
- Connect 12V control wiring with proper polarity
- Connect 120V supply with appropriate gauge (typically 14 AWG for RV applications)
- Install T&P relief valve and discharge tube
- Reinstall access panel; seal exterior gap with RV-specific sealant
Step 3: Bypass valve check
The bypass valve system is critical for winterization. Verify all 3 valves move freely between "in use" and "bypass" positions. Test by closing the cold inlet to the heater — water should not flow from any hot outlet (verifies bypass routing is correct).
Step 4: First fill
- Set bypass valves to "in use" position
- Open cold inlet slowly
- Open hot faucet inside RV to release air
- Verify steady stream from hot faucet (5–10 minutes for full fill)
- Visual leak check at all connections, propane fittings, and water lines
Step 5: First fire (gas mode)
- Turn on propane at tank
- Set gas valve to "Pilot" position
- Push and hold pilot button while igniting (piezo or matchstick)
- Hold 30 seconds after pilot ignites
- Release pilot button — verify pilot stays lit
- Set gas valve to "On" — main burner should fire when thermostat calls for heat
Step 6: First fire (electric mode)
- Verify tank is fully filled (CRITICAL — dry-firing destroys elements)
- Turn on 120V or 240V supply
- Switch electric mode on at the panel
- Verify element heats by feeling tank shell warmth after 30 minutes
Critical installation checks
- Propane leak test: after all gas connections are tight, apply soap solution to every joint. Any bubbles = leak. Re-tighten or re-seal.
- Bypass valve seal: isolate hot side, run cold supply through bypass — no water should appear at hot faucet (verifies bypass routes correctly).
- T&P valve clearance: verify discharge tube routes out the access panel correctly without restriction.
- Exterior panel seal: any gap allows water entry and rodent access — seal thoroughly with RV-grade sealant.
Common install mistakes
- Using Teflon tape on propane fittings (use propane-rated paste only — Teflon tape can shred and clog gas valves)
- Wrong polarity on 12V controls (causes immediate damage to control board)
- Skipping the propane leak test (slow leak causes fire risk)
- Missing the bypass valve verification (winterization will fail if valves are misrouted)
- Powering on electric before tank is fully filled